Simple Boat-Building - Rowing Flattie, V-Bottom Sailing Dinghy, Moulded Pram, Hull for Outboard

Geoffrey Prout

Description

This vintage book is a complete and beginner-friendly guide to building boats, with information on the design and construction of a rowing “flattie”, a V-bottomed sailing dinghy, a moulded pram, and more. It was designed for those looking to build a boat on a budget and without special tools, and was written by an amateur with actual experience building twelve boats. Contents include: “Hints on Designing”, “Sequence and Method in Building”, “How to Build a Dinghy Flattie”, “Finishing Details”, “How to Build a V-Quartered Sailing Dinghy”, “How to Build a Moulded Pram Dinghy”, “How to Build an Outboard Run-About”, and “How to Build a Dagger-Trunk”. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on boat building.

Informations

• Publié par: Read Books Ltd.
• Date de parution: 08 janvier 2021
• Nombre de lectures: 0
• EAN13: 9781528764056
• Langue: English

Extrait

SIMPLE BOAT-BUILDING
Rowing Flattie V-Bottom Sailing Dinghy Moulded Pram Hull for Outboard
BY
GEOFFREY PROUT
Author of Brown s Pocket-book for Yachtsmen Motor Boating for Beginners, Etc. Joint Author of Yachting
Copyright 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Boat Building
Boat building is one of the oldest branches of engineering; concerned with constructing the hulls of boats and, for sailboats, the masts, spars and rigging. It is a specialised occupation that traces its roots into the annals of history, as well as a well-respected trade - and popular hobby. Archaeological evidence indicates that humans arrived on Borneo at least 120,000 years ago, probably by sea from the Asian mainland during an ice age period when the sea was lower and distances between islands shorter. The ancestors of Australian Aborigines and New Guineans also went across the Lombok Strait to Sahul by boat over 50,000 years ago. A boat itself, is a watercraft of any size designed to float or plane, to work or travel on water. They come in an enormous variety of shapes, sizes and construction, due to intended purpose, available materials and local traditions.
Most small boats are designed for inland lakes or protected coastal areas, whereas others, such as the whaleboat are operated from another ship, in an offshore environment. In naval terms, a boat is a vessel small enough to be carried aboard another vessel (a ship). Yet for reasons of naval tradition, submarines are also usually referred to as boats rather than as ships , regardless of their size. Boat building; was first really advanced by the Vikings, who built longships ; an advancement from traditional clinker-built hulls (a method of boat building where the edges of hull planks overlap). Sometime around the twelfth century, northern European ships began to be built with a straight sternpost enabling the mounting of a rudder - much more durable than a steering oar held over the side. One of the best insights into ship building in the North Sea / Baltic areas of the early medieval period has been found at Sutton Hoo, England, where an entire ship was buried with a chieftain. The ship was 26 metres (85 ft) long and, 4.3 metres (14 ft) wide, built with overlapping oaken planks - holding upwards of thirty men.
A boats construction is usually its defining feature; and the measure of its success or failure at sea. There are several key components which make up the main structure of most boats though. These are, the hull ; the main component that provides buoyancy. The gunnel ; the sides of the boat, offering protection from the water and making it harder to sink. The deck ; the roughly horizontal, but chambered structures spanning the hull of the boat (more commonly found in ships), and above the deck are the superstructures. Underneath is the cabin , which similarly to the superstructure will have many constituent parts. Hulls are the most important part of the boat, and the type of hull used is of vital importance; for example, going to sea requires a hull which is more stable than a hull used for sailing rivers (which can be more flat/round).
Until the mid-nineteenth century most boats were constructed using natural materials; primarily wood although reed, bark and animal skins were also used. This changed with the industrial revolution however, when many boats were made with iron or steel frames (now readily available and reasonably inexpensive to construct) - but still planked in wood. Initially, iron was only used in discrete areas in a wooden hull needing greater strength, (e.g. as deck knees, hanging knees, knee riders and the like). Then, in the form of plates riveted together and made watertight, it was used to form the hull itself. Today, boat building is a multi-million pound industry, but can be (and is) done on a much smaller scale too. For those wanting to build their own boat, boat building uses many or the same tools that are common house tools such as hammers, cross cut saws, power drills, benches and vices. For building small boats under 5 metres, some specialized tools are needed such as clamps (cramps) either G clamps or spring clamps. Flat and round surform rasps are also useful tools for shaping wood and ply, as well as drill sets and other power tools.
Although not a traditional method, power tools make the job of boat building much easier and are relatively cheap. Circular saws and belt sanders can be invaluable and likewise a steam box can be incredibly useful - excellent for making planks easier to bend although hot wet rags are a messy, but easy substitute. Having said this, one can pay joiners or timber yards to undertake any work that the individual is incapable of doing. One important thing to consider is the space that the amateur boat builder has available; boat building requires enough space, under cover, so that the builder can easily move around the hull during construction. In terms of finishing the boat, water based paint is far easier and cheaper to apply as undercoat, to produce a good smooth finish with a fraction of the time and effort of enamel paints. Harder and slower drying enamel is best for the top coat on the outside of the hull which is subject to a lot of bumps and scraps. Limit varnishing to smaller areas, such as grab rails, hatches, toe rails and trim, unless you have lots of patience and a very dust free environment for varnishing. We hope the reader enjoys this book, and is maybe encouraged to try some boat building of their own!
PREFACE.
THE appearance of chime-built dinghies round our coasts of recent years has tempted many an amateur to tackle the building of these simple craft. And, having successfully built a flattie, the enthusiastic amateur has realised that he can quite as confidently make an attempt on a moulded boat.
Once the methods adopted in building have been grasped, the work is really quite easy. Trouble comes when the builder tackles the work in wrong sequence . . . But it is easy to keep to the correct sequence if that sequence is detailed. Hence this little book.
The instructions in each chapter are given with the idea that the builder ( a ) wants to keep down expense; ( b ) doesn t want to crop up against difficulty in obtaining material; ( c ) doesn t want to buy special tools; ( d ) doesn t want even the smallest item in the work to be left to his own knowledge of carpentry, which, perhaps, is nil.
This book is the result of an amateur s actual experience in building twelve boats, each different in length and design. Three of the twelve were moulded lap-strake boats, and the work was often tackled under great difficulties owing to poor accommodation, bad weather and a meagre tool chest.
So it can be done.
G EOFFREY P ROUT .
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.-HINTS ON DESIGNING.
About flatties -Cost of flatties-First consideration in designing-The scale-Striking the first line-Drawing curves-Use of penning batten-Making penning battens-Artist or craftsman-Profile-Deck plan-Size for stern-board-Flare-Outline of bottom-Outline of deck -Use of French curve-The cultivation of eye
CHAPTER II.-SEQUENCE AND METHOD IN BUILDING.
Where to build-The stocks-Getting bottom sheer-The ideal building shed-Planing bench-Making the primary parts-Erecting on the stocks-Getting curve of bottom-Measuring to get curve according to plan-Mounting stern-board and stem-Bracing temporarily-Shaping, putting on and fastening the planks-Adjusting for flare- Blown planks-Use of wooden clamps-Fitting inwales-Thwart and stern seat-Fitting crooks-Trimming superfluous wood-Consideration of minimum heights and distances-The tools required
CHAPTER III.-HOW TO BUILD A DINGHY FLATTIE.
Studying the plans-Making the stern-board-Cost of elm-Shaping the stem-Making the bottom-The wood for bottom-How the seams should run-Cutting the floors -Positions for floors-Cramping the bottom-Nailing bottom to floors-Marking the shape of bottom-Bevelling for flare-Erecting the stem-A luting mixture-Erecting and fastening stern-board-Jamming in on stocks-Fairing edges-Bevelling plank ends-The wood for planking-Fitting and fastening planks-Getting the correct flare-Marking for saw-cut at forward end-Putting on upper planks-The amount of lap-Making wooden clamps-if plank is blown -Getting shape symmetrical-Fastening details-The nails to use-Riveting-Fitting inwales-Size of wood for inwales-Saw-cuts at ends of inwales-Fastening inwales-Distances apart for fastenings
CHAPTER IV.-FINISHING DETAILS.
Measuring for thwart-Cutting and fastening thwart and stern-seat-The wood for crooks-Run of the grain in crooks-Number of crooks required-Marking crooks for fitting-Fastening crooks-Setting the knees and breasthook-Taking boat off the stocks-Trimming off superfluous wood-Putting on the skid-The advantage of staggering nails-Trimming down stem bottom-Finishing off the stem-head-Rowlock fittings and fastenings-Fitting rubbing strip-Finishing off top edge of stern-board-The sculling notch-Trimming gunwales-How to plane elm-Boring for rowlock crutch-Making burden boards-The positions of burden-board cross-pieces-Holding burden-board down to curve of bottom-The price of sculls and rowlock crutches-Painter, painter ring and anchor-Preparing boat for paint and varnish-Painting and varnishing
CHAPTER V.-HOW TO BUILD A V-QUARTERED SAILING DINGHY.
Advantages of this design-Making bottom-Cutting the V-The curve of cut required-Cutting down the floors-Mounting on stocks-How to strain in the V-bottom-How to use a screw cramp-Preventing damage to bottom edges-Marking out shape of st